www.plumberx.com How to solder copper pipe and re-pipe home. Well how did this come about? I Felt that there's was a lot of people out there that like Diy projects and they do have the skill, and some of use have more time then we have money, but they all have one thing in common is they just need a little encouragement and close up on know how. And in these video I provide just that. Every shot is close up and personal. I made these videos with the mind set of , How would I want to learn by watching a videos, and this these are the results. Close up shot's of what is really going on. You know let me see move to the side man. I don't want to see you I want to see what your doing. I can't learn any thing looking at you show me that work please. Thank you! J Yep that's just how I feel when I watch a video and the guy in the videos just wants to show himself and talk and talk and talk and close to the end he show a little shot of the work. Thanks a lot Pal for wasting my time. Now in these how to solder copper pipe and re-pipe home you we learn things like How to solder copper pipe, How to keep from burning things around you, How to hang copper pipe to floor joist, how to prepare the copper pipe and pipe fitting to be soldered, Soldering copper pipe and fitting in the horizontal position, how to solder Dielectric unions on water heater with out burning the inserts, and much more. Soldering copper pipe is not as hard as it may seem with a little know how and practice you can ...
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Justrite 7250120 AccuFlow 5 Gallon, 11.75" OD x 17.50" H Galvanized Steel Type II Red Safety Can With 5/8" Flexible Spout
!±8± Justrite 7250120 AccuFlow 5 Gallon, 11.75" OD x 17.50" H Galvanized Steel Type II Red Safety Can With 5/8" Flexible Spout
Brand : Justrite | Rate : 
| Price : $64.71
Post Date : Dec 25, 2011 10:09:31 | Usually ships in 24 hours
| Price : $64.71Post Date : Dec 25, 2011 10:09:31 | Usually ships in 24 hours
- Large ID zone permits user labeling of contents to avoid misuse
- Stainless steel flame arrester for exceptional corrosion protection - reliably dissipates heat to prevent flashback ignition; Long 3-1/2" (88mm) length arrester allows safe, secure placement of gas nozzle
- Gasoline, Gas-Oily Mixture, Kerosine, Diesel
- Ergonomic offset fill port with comfort lift lever makes filling easier than ever Easy-to-use Safe-Squeeze trigger for accurate control of liquid flow
- Self-closing lid controls vapors and spills
More Specification..!!
Justrite 7250120 AccuFlow 5 Gallon, 11.75" OD x 17.50" H Galvanized Steel Type II Red Safety Can With 5/8" Flexible Spout
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Fix A Leaking Outside Water Faucet
Sometimes you run across a leaking spicket that is on the outside of the house. If you live in the city, this could increase your water bill not by much but still an increase. If you live out in the country this might increase the electric bill because the well keeps on running to provide that water.
Depending on the type of spicket that you have will depend on the fix. If you have a standard compression spicket, which usually has the round metal handle on it, the leak may be coming from the handle stem, if so all you have to do it tighten the packing nut that is buy the handle. To do this just take a wrench and tight the packing nut around the stem. Now if that doesn't fix it, and the handle is still leaking, or that the leak is coming from the spot, we are going to have to take the take the spicket apart.
To do this we want to start off by shutting off the water to the spicket. This is done usually in the basement or crawl space. Now if your house is on a concrete slab there is one of two things you can do. One is shut the water main off to the entire house, or if you are lucky and the plumbers installed a shut off for that spicket, which they most likely didn't do, you can turn that off. The same goes if you don't have a shut off in the basement for the spicket, you have to shut off the main to the house. Now the main to the house will have a large meter on it known as, you got it the water meter. There will be some sort of valve near it. Warning! DON'T SHUT THE VALVE OFF THAT GOES INTO THE METER. This will get you into a lot of trouble it tampered with. The valve that we want is on the out of the water meter.
With the water shut off, its time to get to work. Now go outside and turn and open the valve to release and water that is in the pipes from the inside valve to the spicket. If you had to shut the main off go every fixture in the house and open them to release the water and the go to the spicket and open it. This will remove any water from the house and then you don't have to work with water coming at you by surprise.
Now, if the stem is leaking we are going to want to remove that part from the spicket. To do that, we are going to need an adjustable wrench. Behind that packing nut there is a spot that you can place an adjustable wrench and unscrew the assembly. Completely unscrew that packing assembly and remove it from the spicket. Now we are going to want to get to the packing nut washer. To do this we need to unscrew the handle on the assembly. There should be a nut or screw on top of the handle that you can unscrew. Unscrew it and remove the handle.
Next you are going to want to unscrew and remove the packing nut. Inside the nut you are going to find some type of washer, either a Rubber packing washer or graphite packing string. Remove either and replace with a new matching one. Now if you can't find a matching washer for the packing nut, you can use graphite sting. Wrap the string around the stem and the push the packing washer over it and tighten it down. You can do this by using a flat blade screw driver. The reverse the steps, first by reinstalling the packing nut, put the handle on the assembly, put the assembly back in to the spicket, and tighten.
Now if the spicket was leaking from the spout, all beginning steps are the same to get the assembly out of the spicket. Then you are going to want to replace the compression washer that is on the bottom of the assembly. Unscrew the nut that holds it in place and replace the washer with it exact match size and shape. Re-screw the screw back on to the assembly to hold the washer. Then reinstall the assembly back into the spicket. With the spicket reinstalled it is safe to turn the water back on. Make sure that all the faucets in the house that you opened are closed first.
Saturday, December 10, 2011
Make Money Solving Plumbing Problems
Owners or tenants pay you to solve plumbing problems in their apartments or homes. Since this is an emergency type service, you should be able to make money without much trouble. People seem to have leaking water, and/or stopped up drains quite often. With the right kind of knowledge, you can easily solve most of these problems. (This is article #4 in a series of emergency handyman services.)
Requirements
This business idea is best suited for people who are physically fit and enjoy working with their hands. You must be able to locate and remedy common plumbing problems. If needed, you can buy how-to manuals at most plumbing or building products stores.
You should own a pickup truck or van to haul equipment, materials, supplies, and trash. You need to own or purchase the equipment and protective gear required for this activity. You should set up a home office with the basic office equipment and supplies.
Getting customers
Use a simple classified advertisement in the local newspaper or on craigslist.org to get customers. Also, advertise in any property owner's newsletter.
Preliminary job activities
After arriving at the job site and greeting the customer, inspect the water leak or stopped up drain. Determine if you need to purchase any plumbing fixtures, drainpipe, or water pipe. You should already have a supply of assorted drain traps, gaskets, screws, and washers for minor repairs.
The customer may be in a hurry and want you to work on a holiday, weekend, or at night to get the plumbing problem fixed.
You can use standard job bid forms to estimate your labor and the costs of materials and supplies. This bid should include the fees for any extra services to be performed, such as hauling away any large amounts of trash. If the customer accepts your bid, you both can sign the bid form.
Turn off the main water supply valve. Also, shut off any electricity or combustible gas to an affected water appliance.
Main job activities
Following are typical plumbing problems you may encounter and the procedures to take care of them.
Clogged aerator or showerhead -- The aerator is a device on the end of a faucet spout that mixes air with water to produce a gentle stream of water. A showerhead often is adjustable to allow different streams of water, such as a fine spray or a concentrated spray. You can unscrew either device from its spout and open it up to remove all the clogging particles inside it. Then screw the device back onto its spout.
Defective hot water tank -- If the tank itself is leaking it will have to be replaced. Sometimes a heating element on an electrical hot water tank burns out. In this case, only the heating element has to be replaced. If the hot water tank has to be replaced then the defective tank will have to be hauled to a suitable dumpsite. In most cases, a defective hot water tank should be repaired or replaced only by a licensed plumber. (Note: Draining, refilling, or replacing a hot water tank is a very delicate operation. Be sure you are fully qualified before attempting these procedures.)
Frozen water pipe --If the frozen water pipe is ruptured, turn off the main water shutoff valve. Then you will have to cut out the portion of the pipe that is split or ruptured. Place a water pail under this gap. Next heat the pipe beginning where the pipe was cut off and going both ways toward the rest of the pipe. After thawing out the pipe, you will have to replace the missing portion of the pipe. Then open a faucet and turn on the main water shutoff valve to verify that the pipe has been thawed out.
If the frozen water pipe is not ruptured, do not turn off the main water shutoff valve. Begin heating the pipe starting from an open faucet and going toward the portion of the pipe that appears to be frozen. Usually this will be where the pipe is exposed to cold air.
You can use any of the following heat sources to thaw out the pipe:
* Electric heat tape
* Heat lamp
* High-power air dryer
* Small portable heater
Do not use an open flame to thaw out a frozen water pipe. This may cause a fire.
Leaking bathtub or shower -- Any leaks from the showerhead or tub spout should be obvious from visual inspection immediately after use. You may be able to fix the leak by putting Teflon tape on the threaded pipe that supports the showerhead or tub spout. If the showerhead or tub spout is rusted out, you will have to replace it.
If the shower drain, or the bottom drain in a bathtub, is leaking as seen from water stains underneath it, you probably need to install a new gasket or plumbing putty between the drain flange and the shower or tub floor. If the side drain (overflow drain) in a bathtub is leaking as seen from water stains underneath it, you probably need to install a new gasket between the outside wall of the tub and the flange of the overflow drain.
If the seams in the bathtub wall or shower enclosure have opened, you will have to reattach the wallboard and/or apply new caulking. Also, you may need to renew the caulking between the bottom of the shower or bathtub wall, and the top edge of the bathtub or shower drain pan.
Another possible source of leaks is water spraying through the gaps where a shower curtain fails to butt firmly against the wall on either side. You can use adhesive caulk to attach plastic triangles to the top edges of the bathtub to close these gaps.
Leaking drainpipe or trap -- The two main causes of leaks from a drainpipe are a rusted or damaged pipe, or a worn-out gasket.
If there is no gasket at the source of the leak, then the drainpipe itself is probably damaged. You will have to replace that piece of the drainpipe. This drainpipe is usually either white thin-wall plastic, chromed metal, ABS black plastic, or galvanized steel.
If the drainpipe goes under the floor, you may have to get access to the crawl space or basement to locate the source of the leak.
When replacing a portion of a drainpipe that goes inside a larger pipe, be sure to allow for the "hidden" portion of the replacement drainpipe. Where different kinds of drainpipe are connected together, you'll need a compression nut and a new gasket for the connection.
Leaking faucet -- A standard faucet (or hose cock) is used for either cold water or hot water. Thus, two faucets are needed to deliver the desired temperature of water to a sink, washbasin, showerhead, or tub spout. A hose cock is a shutoff valve that allows the female end of a garden hose to be attached to its spout. It is used as a water supply for a clothes washer or a lawn sprinkler, or as a drain for a hot water tank.
The standard faucet (or hose cock) has a rubber washer that bears against a valve seat, the source of water. The washer is held in place by a screw that goes into the stem (spindle) of the handle.
A single-handle faucet controls the water temperature by mixing hot and cold water together. Depending on the manufacturer, these faucets use different devices to mix and control the flow of water. This device could be a cartridge, ceramic disc, or rotary ball with two rubber seats and springs. If this device is leaking, you will have to replace it.
Leaking toilet --If the toilet is a single piece, the leak will be where the toilet sits on the floor. You will have to unfasten the toilet from the floor, replace the wax ring, and re-fasten the toilet to the floor.
If the toilet has a separate water tank, the leak may be where the bottom of the water tank attaches to the top of the toilet bowl. If so, you will have either to carefully tighten the screws or replace the gaskets.
Leaking water appliance -- a water appliance refers to a dishwasher or clothes washer. The two main sources of leaks in a dishwasher are the hot water supply line and the drain line. You have to remove the kick plate of the dishwasher to get access to the underside of the dishwasher. While the dishwasher is running, you can inspect these two lines to see where the leak originates. To fix the problem, you probably need to tighten or replace the connection between the dishwasher and the water or drain line.
There could also be a leak where the other end of the hot water supply line goes into its shut off valve. If so, you probably need to tighten the connection or replace the washer.
A clothes washer is connected to the hot water and cold water supply with a pair of short hoses. These hoses are similar to a garden hose, but are stronger. You may have to tighten the connection or replace the washer. If the drain line connection to the clothes washer is leaking, you should tighten it or replace the washer.
Stopped up drainpipe or trap -- If the trap is blocked, you can simply unscrew it and dump out the water and any blocking material. Once the trap is cleaned out, any further blockage would be in the drainpipe after the trap. Remove the trap again and use an auger to clean out the drainpipe.
Stopped up toilet -- If the toilet bowl is overflowing, the blockage is either in the internal trap in the toilet, or in the drainpipe going from the base of the toilet to the sewer line. In either case, you probably need to use an auger to clear out the obstruction.
Final job activities
Turn the main water supply valve back on and turn on any electricity or combustible gas that was previously shut off. Check for any leaks or drain blockages. Inspect the premises to verify you have finished all required tasks. Remove all your equipment and supplies.
Collect your agreed upon fee from the customer. Haul large amounts of trash away, if part of your agreed upon services. (Remove small amounts of trash as a courtesy to your customer. You can haul it to a dumpsite later.)
Final thoughts
This business idea lets you make money while providing a needed service. You can start out as a part-time venture. Then, if the demand is sufficient, you might want to make it into a full-time venture.
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Justrite 7210120 AccuFlow 1 Gallon, Galvanized Steel Type II Red Safety Can With 5/8" Flexible Spout
!±8± Justrite 7210120 AccuFlow 1 Gallon, Galvanized Steel Type II Red Safety Can With 5/8" Flexible Spout
Brand : Justrite | Rate : | Price : $63.55
Post Date : Dec 10, 2011 16:15:05 | Usually ships in 24 hours
| Price : $63.55Post Date : Dec 10, 2011 16:15:05 | Usually ships in 24 hours
Justrite 7210120 AccuFlow 1 Gallon, Galvanized Steel Type II Red Safety Can With 5/8" Flexible Spout
- Large ID zone permits user labeling of contents to avoid misuse
- Stainless steel flame arrester for exceptional corrosion protection - reliably dissipates heat to prevent flashback ignition; Long 3-1/2" (88mm) length arrester allows safe, secure placement of gas nozzle
- Gasoline, Gas-Oily Mixture, Kerosine, Diesel
- Ergonomic offset fill port with comfort lift lever makes filling easier than ever Easy-to-use Safe-Squeeze trigger for accurate control of liquid flow
- Self-closing lid controls vapors and spills
More Specification..!!
Justrite 7210120 AccuFlow 1 Gallon, Galvanized Steel Type II Red Safety Can With 5/8" Flexible Spout
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Guide to Stainless Steel Coolers
When you need to transport or store cool beverages for any period of time, a cooler can come in handy. Cooler come in all sizes, ranging from small handbag-style units to giant rolling coolers for camping trips. Unfortunately many of these coolers are quite bland in appearance, having only a white plastic exterior. Stainless steel coolers spice things up by using a true stainless steel exterior for function and great looks. The company Coleman invented the first steel cooler in the 1950's and they have been popular ever since. Through the decades, these coolers have evolved slightly but their function remains the same- to keep drinks and snacks cold when a refrigerator is not close at hand.
Stainless steel coolers feature real stainless steel on the outside. This not only looks good but provides a noticeable insulating effect. Sandwiched between the steel exterior and waterproof interior liner is insulating foam which keeps heat from entering. A set of industrial hinges and a rubber seal keep heat from entering the lid seams. Extra features like drink holders, metal stands and roller wheels can provide a helping hand. These coolers are rated at different sizes, usually in quarts. Users partially fill the cooler with ice and then deposit their perishable goods.
Coleman's 54 quart stainless steel cooler is a true work of art, featuring a full steel lid and base. The bottom is covered with black plastic to prevent the unit from sliding around. A 1/3 gallon steel jug is included for users to store beverages in. The durable steel latch is rust proof and works to keep the lid sealed tightly at all times. With this tight seal, melting ice has no chance of escaping. A drain at the bottom allows users to empty melted ice by tipping the unit over. The included liquid jug has a flip spout for easy sipping.
A company called Living Accents also makes a great stainless cooler that sits on a wheeled frame. This large 120 quart cooler has double top doors for easy access. The interior is made from tin, while the exterior is covered I stainless steel. The cooler sits on a specially designed metal frame that has caster wheels on the bottom. Since the unit becomes quite heavy when full, the wheels are provided to aid in transport. On the front is a handy bottle opener to open glass bottles quickly. A small cup holds used bottle caps until they can be disposed of.
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Friday, December 2, 2011
Briggs & Stratton 5 Gallon Metal Gas Can Auto Shut-Off; with Spout (CARB Compliant) WCA520P
!±8±Briggs & Stratton 5 Gallon Metal Gas Can Auto Shut-Off; with Spout (CARB Compliant) WCA520P
Brand : Briggs & StrattonRate :
Price :
Post Date : Dec 02, 2011 21:59:55
Usually ships in 1-2 business days
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